Kontrabanda

In the mid-1990s Caucasus, trade meant survival. Years later, one encounter became a painting about memory, exchange, and human resilience.

It was the mid-1990s in the Caucasus.

We met him in the snow, somewhere between Georgia and Ingushetia.

In the mid-1990s, after years of war and civil conflict, many remote villages in the Caucasus survived almost entirely on what they could produce themselves: cows, sheep, cheese, butter, herbs, homemade vodka, tobacco.

Everything else had to be obtained through exchange: flour, horseshoes, oil, ammunition — sometimes even a small Korean color television.

These goods were carried across the mountains by traders moving between isolated regions, organizing barter: sheep for fuel, cigarettes for a horse. Their merchandise was known as “kontrabanda” (Russian: контрабанда) — smuggled goods.

Group of horse traders standing in snow on a mountain pass in the Caucasus
Caucasus, 1997 — source image of the encounter

The trade was not necessarily illegal, but it was dangerous. Border guards, corrupt officials, or simple bandits could appear at any moment. Money was taken, flocks driven away — sometimes at gunpoint. The weather, too, was an adversary: blizzards, avalanches, a horse slipping into a ravine — any of it could mean the loss of everything.

Packhorses carrying goods through snow in a remote Caucasus mountain landscape
Trade routes across the mountains

But these traders carried more than goods. They brought news from the outside world: from Tbilisi, Grozny, Yerevan. Newspapers, rumors, jokes — and the latest exchange rates.

They were tough, observant men — resourceful, quick-witted, and able to adapt to constantly shifting conditions. Resourceful. Quick-witted. Able to adapt.

Wide snow-covered mountain landscape with small group of people and horses
Remote mountain routes in the Caucasus

Encounter

Minimal line drawing of a mountain pass landscape
Juta drawing by Heiner Buhr – Early sketch — mapping the landscape

My painting “Kontrabanda” (2024) is based on an encounter with such a trader on the Arkhoti mountain pass.

I remember him as the Ingush man “Mak-Sharif.” In the silent, snow-covered solitude, he seemed quietly glad to meet other people. He invited us to stop. We shared cigarettes. We exchanged jokes.

Years later, when friends from Khevsureti sold me a sturdy red-brown horse, they told me the horse had come from Ingushetia — through Mak-Sharif.

Transformation

Digital collage of Caucasus horse traders with early text elements, based on documentary photograph
Digital collage, 2005 — first transformation of the original image

The text in the painting comes from a spam email I once received and kept for its unintended, almost accidental poetry. In the context of the image, it echoes the logic of informal economies: fragmented, coded, and strangely revealing.

Collage

Mixed media collage showing horse traders with added pharmaceutical elements and text
Mixed media collage — material transformation with pharmaceutical elements

Later, I developed physical collages, incorporating materials such as pharmaceutical elements, adding layers of meaning related to systems, exchange, and the body.

Painting

Small expressive painting of a person leading a horse in a snowy mountain setting
Study made in 1999 — reduction of form and movement. Private collection: Dr. Reinhard Leusing

The painting from 2024 condenses these stages into a single image.
It is both a recollection and a transformation — a reduction of narrative into form, gesture, and tension.


Large acrylic painting showing Caucasus horse traders with text overlay, based on a 1997 mountain encounter
“Kontrabanda”, 2024 — acrylic on canvas, 190 × 130 cm

The text in the painting comes from a spam email I once received and kept for its unintended, almost poetic absurdity.

In the context of the image, it echoes the logic of informal economies: fragmented, coded, and strangely revealing.

“Kontrabanda” reflects on exchange — of goods, of stories, of realities — in a landscape shaped by necessity and adaptation.

It is less a depiction than a reconstruction of memory across time.

This work is not only about trade. It is about exchange — of goods, stories, and human presence. About how memory becomes image, and how experience takes form.

The painting is available on request.

Inquire

Work

Kontrabanda, 2024
Acrylic on canvas
190 × 130 cm

Vernissage Gallery, Tbilisi
November 1–12, 2024

Part of the exhibition “Heartland”